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A road now links the southern shore of Lake Lugu to the tourist town of Lijiang and thousands of tourists, mostly Chinese nouveaux riche, arrive each year.Few are interested in the remote beauty of the area.

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"Whenever a Tibetan caravan or other strangers were passing, these ladies went into a huddle and secretly decided where each man should stay.Perched at an altitude of 9,000ft, the area first came to Western attention in the 1920s through the writings of Joseph Rock, National Geographic's reporter in China, whose work inspired James Hilton's classic novel Lost Horizon.Later visitors described the Mosuo as inhabitants of a hedonistic haven.Most of the rest of China believes that "it is better to have a dog than a daughter" and women are treated, at best, as second class citizens.The Mosuo women, however, are free from such attitudes.

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